The History of Gingham

  • From Dorothy Gale to Brigitte Bardot—this charming check has quite the sartorial history.

  • 3 models wearing gingham checked pattern
  • Here at J.McLaughlin we have a thing for prints, especially gingham. It doesn’t get more classic than this iconic checked pattern. Gingham is one of our mainstays and is almost always in our collections in one version or another. Not only does it look great, but it has an interesting history that just adds to its inherent charm.

  • Brigitte Bardot in “Voulez-vous danser avec moi?” in 1960.
  • Brigitte Bardot in “Voulez-vous danser avec moi?” in 1960.

  • Origins

  • Though gingham feels as American as apple pie it has quite worldly origins. It is said to have originated in either Malaysia or France in the 17th century and started more like a stripe than a check. It was adopted and popularized by the English and the Dutch around 1800 where it became the checked pattern we know today and was often produced in a cotton or muslin fabric. Through both globalization and industrialization it made its way to the United States and became popular for its low cost, durability, and airy feel. In both urban and rural areas, women needed dresses that could stand up to the rigors of both factory and farm work and cotton gingham could do both.

  • Judy Garland in “The Wizard of Oz” in 1939.
  • Judy Garland in “The Wizard of Oz” in 1939.

  • Katharine Hepburn in “The Philadelphia Story” in 1940.
  • Katharine Hepburn in “The Philadelphia Story” in 1940.

  • Popular Culture

    When Judy Garland donned a blue checked dress for her role as Dorothy Gale in the 1939 film “The Wizard of Oz”, gingham instantly stepped into the spotlight. Her iconic costume proved that this print was more than just for farm girls. Just a year later in 1940, Katherine Hepburn had a major fashion moment wearing a gingham printed dress in the hit film “The Philadelphia Story”. Co-starring with Cary Grant, she played Tracy Lord, a wealthy Main Line socialite and stunned in a dress, designed by Adrian, MGM’s head costume designer. Featuring a ruffled gingham skirt and sheer sleeves, the sophistication of this look further solidified gingham’s fashion credibility and popularity.

  • Princess Diana outside her Highgrove home in 1986.
  • Princess Diana outside her Highgrove home in 1986.

  • The 1950’s & beyond…

    Through the 1950’s and 1960’s, gingham became stylish with both celebrities and chic women, especially in the summer months. Since gingham was mostly rendered in cotton, it was a natural choice for sundresses, capris and even swimsuits. Women everywhere wanted to wear this print especially when starlets like Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe were photographed in gingham off-duty looks. Brigitte Bardot caused quite a stir when she sported a pink gingham dress for her wedding to Jaques Charrier in France in the summer of 1959. Her look, obviously unexpected for a wedding, channeled the vibe of gingham - effortless, sweet, romantic and breezy. When the hit show Gilligan’s Island came out in the early 1960’s, it was no surprise that the sweet, wholesome girl-next-door character Mary Ann was often clad in a gingham blouse and cutoff denim shorts. Her look matched her role and although she was the antithesis of Ginger, the fancy movie star, she looked just as chic and put together.

  • Taylor Swift walking the streets of New York City in 2014.
  • Taylor Swift walking the streets of New York City in 2014.

  • Modern Gingham

    Gingham is still everywhere and on everything from basketball sneakers to ball gowns. There is no wrong way to wear this classic print and it works on everyone whether they are two or 102. This season at J.McLaughlin our gingham game is strong. Our pièce de résistance is our pink gingham Ressie blazer. This statement jacket is a fun way to show off your checks and can be worn with the matching Maisie pants for a Palm Springs take on the power suit. We are also loving the Maisie pants in lime and navy hues. Pair them with a sleek textured tee and a pair of colorful sandals and you are good to go anywhere and everywhere.